J. Wecker Frisch
We have been hearing a lot of excitement surrounding the
And we are equally excited and thrilled to be bringing this classic fabric collection with our partners at Riley Blake Designs and FUN project to all of you!!
Please note the new “shooting for” date:
The Sweet Snow-A-Long originally scheduled to begin on July 23rd will now start on July 30th.
Patterns (P149)-Sweet Snow-A-Long) will be ready in the nick of time, for this highly anticipated event!
Meanwhile, if you’re shopping!
The REVISED Fabric Requirements and Supplies List:
Sweet Snow-A-Long Update
The above items are available in Quilt Shops now.
We are sorry for the delay and are grateful for your understanding and patience. We want to be sure that everyone is able to gain access to the fabric and pattern.
So, hang on just a bit longer please.
Thanks again for all of You who have been supporting the Snow Sweet fabric collection, it has been amazing!
fabrics from Riley Blake Designs!
Follow us here at JOY STUDIO for each step over five weeks to make this delightful and delicious quilt top.
Patterns and fabric are shipping now so check with your favorite shop for arrival times. MANY shops have ordered this so patterns, kits and fabric should be widely available.
If your local is still closed check the on line shops. Search Snow Sweet fabric and Sweet Snow-A-Long.
J. Wecker Frisch
Anyone can make this. We know because WE DID!! Lol And as you know, we are still new at this. I hope you can join us to make this really fun snowy quilt and cool off your summer!!!
Hat Shop Sew-A-Long, last post.
Adding your borders is all that is left to do!
This can be done in a couple of different ways however, I will only be describing how I actually, chose to finish this quilt.
First up, the inner 1″ (finish size) black border. Make sure that your window blocks are squared up by trimming, measuring and placing your tracings over them before you add this border. Pay special attention to you last row of blocks so that all of the items will appear to be sitting on the bottom shelf of your window. It was necessary for me to trim mine about 1/2″. Then pin and sew with your 1/4″ seam.
Secondly sew on your gray borders to three sides. Top, right and left. I cut them 2″ for an inch and a half finish.
Because I did not want to stitch around the appliquéd bricks after the borders were added to the quilt top, I simply strip pieced both of the borders together to treat the entire unit as the bottom border. Then I arranged the bricks (omitting one) making up the window sill approximately 1/4″ or so apart, evenly to fit directly under the black inner border. When I was satisfied with the placement, I fused the bricks to the gray and black unit, overlapping the seam slightly. This made stitching down the bricks much easier to manage than turning the entire quilt. I did however, stray from the pattern a bit. As you can see, the brick window ledge was confined to the bottom border only. You can choose to add two more bricks, one on each end after you add your side borders. I plan to do this as I show in the last photo in the segment below.
If you made it through the Hat Shop SAL, be proud of yourself! I was, and also quite surprised. This was a very intimidating challenge for me but I pushed through and learned much by making this project. Now my top is off to the quilter and I will share the finished piece with you soon.
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From ART to APPLIQUÉ.
Thanks for following and hopefully, sewing-a-long.
So long, for now.
Week 4, already?!!!!
We have been sewing down all of our appliqué pieces in rows 1 and 2. How about you?! We are still trying to figure out how we can patch our derby form correction so we will keep you posted in case you have the same problem.
To help us get a better view of our progress, we purchased materials to construct a much needed design wall. Refining is still underway but for now, it works. If you have the room I recommend one although I’m sure that most of you are way ahead of me on this already. We purchased 2, two inch thick, 4′ x 8′ sheets of styrofoam from a local building materials supplier and then covered them with flannel.
So, this week we finish the last four window blocks. Hurray!
Fusing row 3
Be sure to begin as we did last week by lining up your vertical striped background with the row above as you place your pattern tracing over each of your blocks. Review the images using this link and scroll down to Lining up the vertical stripes.
Likewise as in the week two, use your pattern tracing paper door method to begin placing and fusing all of your appliqué pieces. Review using this link and scroll down to Making an appliqué placement door.
Applique fusing sequence.
Repeating, the best way to determine what is fused first is by laying out all of your appliqué pieces on their corresponding blocks, underneath your tracing paper rendering, carefully checking with your pattern cover and technical illustration. Much like the red hat described in week 2 and the derby in week 3, the majority of the hats are fused in a similar order. Hat stand parts and then hat parts, However, hat one (left to right) took a bit more concentration figuring out the stripes. We cut a few of these pieces to go under each other, e.g. the hat brim stripe, which we added last. Shown here in these photos, the hat brim stripe covers the other angled stripe ends.
Here is how the rest of our row three hats look like before stitching, except for gray. I confess, jumped ahead to sew all like colors to avoid so many thread changes. You can notice that we swapped out black fabric for the pin heads to show up better or you can stitch these if you like.
Also, I cut all the green trim on last hat (below) to include all of the round beading detail. You can eliminate this if you do not wish to do that much extreme cutting and replace with French knots or some other type of decorative stitching or trim.
Have I mentioned lately that we are using my two new collections, Painters Palette and Couturiere Parisienne for this project? And we are loving the rich colors and painterly textures of these gorgeous fabrics from
Riley Blake Designs.
I hope you have enjoyed seeing our Hat Shop (Atelier de Chapellerie) windows progress and now, we would LOVE to see yours! So, if you would . . .
post a photo of your progress and use #hatshopsewalong on your social media channels
so we can find them,
FOLLOW here, on the blog:
@jweckerfrisch on Instagram or Joy Studio on Facebook
We will be happy to send you these CUTE add on appliqué and bonus hat pattern GIVEAWAY! Vintage spools, buttons and button jar.
Drop me a line if you have any questions or comment here. firstname.lastname@example.org
Happy hatting this week!
Again welcome to the Hat Shop Sew-A-Long!
Picking up from last week,
Sewing the details.
As I shared in week two, if you want to add decorative stitching and other trims to enhance each block, you may want to do that before piecing all four blocks together for easier turning. Whether you already assembled your top row before placing the text or not, either way is OK. I still have only fused and stitched down the red hat pieces. We will be stitching the remaining eight applique blocks in their entirety before assembling each row.
Pattern correction, derby wooden hat form applique should be extended to the hat brim, as if to appear going up into the hat. I marked the pattern with red dashed lines in the photo below. Also, the bottom of the rose needs to move up to be even with the hat band also indicated with red dashed lines. See third photo:
This week, fusing row 2.
Lining up the vertical stripes.
If you have a pieced background the most important thing to check in starting row 2 is matching up your vertical stripes! So, before pinning or fusing, match your stripes using your traced block patterns described in week 2, Making an appliqué placement door. Most likely, your stripes will not match the patterns stripes exactly. Mine did not, but were close. As long as you keep the second and third row consistent with your blocks in the previous row, then placement should match up. See below that my blue stripes are slightly to the left of the traced sheet in all three rows/photos. Next we will be using our tracings and placement door, for each of the four blocks in row 2, repeating the same steps as we did in row 1.
Block 1, Row 1
Block 1, Row 2
Block 1, Row 3
Applique fusing sequence.
The best way to determine what is fused first is by laying out all of your appliqué pieces on their corresponding blocks, carefully checking with your pattern cover and technical illustration. Much like the red hat described in week 2, the majority of the hats are fused in a similar order.
For example the derby:
vertical stand post,
and then the rose.
Hat number 3
I chose to use Couturiere Parisenne from Riley Blake Designs, red bold text rather than attempting the red stripes on hat three with my limited sewing experience. Letting the fabric do the work for me while still offering a similar visual impact was a lot less intimidating for me, a novice.
Secondly, we used an interfacing in between the applique and the fusible web to help hide the background for all of the white hats. We used Pellon 911FFW1. As you can see, my stripes are still visible so you may want to choose something heavier for a total mask.
Appliqué Fabric Option
Once everything is fused in row two, you can begin the decorative stitching. Take your time, have fun. This part is where you can really get creative! Again it’s always a good idea with fusibles to at least secure your appliqué with some stitching.
We will plan to assemble all blocks after rows one, two and three are fused and sewn down.
Please forgive me, we did not forget last Saturday’s giveaway, only postponed. We’ll keep you posted.
Stay tuned to Instagram and Facebook for additional news and hat shots.